Food Flashback: What foods did horse racing offer 65 years ago?

Apr 24, 2023 Ashley Anderson/TwinSpires.com

Back for a second consecutive year, Chef Kenneth Hardiman, the culinary leader at Levy, will curate the official menu of the 2023 Kentucky Derby (G1) featuring a number of elevated classic Kentucky dishes with a twist.

From mashed sweet potatoes to cheesy creamed corn, and seared chicken breast, Hardiman’s menu is inspired by traditional southern comfort, yet with his own unique flare sure to please track attendees looking for an exquisite dining experience.

As we look forward to trying out some of Hardiman’s new recipes on the first Saturday in May, let’s first step back in time to gain a glimpse of the evolution of past Kentucky Derby cuisine.

In a flashback to 65 years ago, below are the unique menus of the 1958 Run for the Roses, along with those found at the 1958 Preakness Stakes and the winter meet at Oaklawn Park. 

For more information on the 2023 Kentucky Derby, including recipes and images of the official menu, visit www.kentuckyderby.com/officialderbymenu.

*All menu images are courtesy of the Keeneland Library Collection, please ask permission prior to use.

At a time when the world was humming along to “The Purple People Eater” and witnessing Arnold Palmer’s triumph in the Masters Tournament, the people of the 1950s were also getting some unique nourishment in the form of minced Chicken a la King and calf’s liver.

While not something you’ll find beneath the Twin Spires today, Chicken a la King was an incredibly popular dish of the 1950s and 1960s comprised of cubed chicken and mushrooms in a white sauce commonly served over toast points, but noodles and rice often accompanied the dish as well.

Peas, green peppers, and carrots are also frequently found in the recipe, whose origin is debated to this day.

Also notice the availability of Sanka, a brand of instant decaffeinated coffee first introduced in 1923, and cold cut sandwiches were on hand, with the option of tongue as your choice of meat for $1.50.

*All menu images are courtesy of the Keeneland Library Collection, please ask permission prior to use.

As you can see, Chicken a la King was a prominent menu item at the 1958 Preakness as well. But as to be expected at Pimlico, the famed racetrack in Baltimore, crab cakes were a main feature of the second leg of the Triple Crown.

That same year, champion Thoroughbred Tim Tam crossed the finish line first in both the Derby and Preakness, but he ultimately fell short of the Triple Crown, when he placed second in the Belmont S. (G1) after suffering a fractured sesamoid bone while running down the stretch. Irish Thoroughbred Cavan was named the victor. 

Most notable of all from the racetrack menus of the ‘50s are the
extremely affordable prices. Although, adjusted for inflation, 50 cents
in 1958 equates to $5.23 in 2023 — still quite the bargain!

*All menu images are courtesy of the Keeneland Library Collection, please ask permission prior to use.

At Oaklawn’s winter meet in Arkansas, you could purchase an entree of fried filet of sole, pork loin, or chopped sirloin steak for under $2!

Also notice under beverages the offering of Schlitz Beer, made from the Joseph Schlitz Brewing Company, once one of the largest producers of beer in the U.S. until it became defunct in 1999, when sold to Pabst Brewing Company.

Falstaff is another brand you’d be hard-pressed to find at the track today, as its main label went out of production in 2005. The rights of the brand are also currently owned by Pabst Brewing Company.

A lot has changed since 1958 — the year the first International House of Pancakes opened, Rice-A-Roni went on sale, and Cocoa Krispies cereal was introduced.

But while the grub served back in the 1950s may seem less appealing to a foodie attending the racetrack today, it was all a special part of the race-day experience.

Today you can find all types of fare at the track, whether you want an elegant course of roasted pork loin or a grab-and-go treat, like chicken on a stick, as you walk around the paddock. No matter what you fancy, you’ll find something to savor during your day at the races that will leave you craving another visit to the track. 

Bring home the best tastes of the Kentucky Derby with the Kentucky Derby at Home sweepstakes that features a menu by Chef Damaris Phillips. Learn more about Chef Phillips here!

*All menu images are courtesy of the Keeneland Library Collection, please ask permission prior to use.